There are few restaurants that really rock my world. Nero's Italian, Cafe Charbon, Monica's, and a few others really inspire my taste buds. Not everything is about the food. The atmosphere, the people, the location, etc can really make a place special. Over the weekend in New York City, instead of the old standby Cafe Charbon, The Hazard's introduced me to A Casa Fox. Like Nero's Italian this restaurant made me feel at home, like sitting around my own dining table. I felt just as responsible for the food as the chef did. If the food was not perfect then there was something wrong with me, not the food. The restaurant is tiny, not shocking considering some of the eateries of New York. I once had Pad Thai in a restaurant the size of my bathroom. A Casa Fox is new and the brain child of Melissa Fox, a New York girl with some serious Nicaraguan roots. She is just as cute as a button. Don't let the cuteness fool you. Melissa is one tough cookie. She put that restaurant together herself and when the contractor screwed up the fireplace (I believe he eventually stopped showing up) she added stone and brick masonry to her resume. She rebuilt it herself and it looks beautiful. We walk in and she greets us heartily like she was expecting good friends for dinner. The Hazard's have already been there and she new them by name.
Atmosphere:
The space is small and cozy. There are two large tables that seat large parties and small tables for that more intimate feel. She does not have her liquor license yet so it is BYOB, which is the best way in my opinion. Mr. Hazard selected two fine bottles from his collection. He handed over the bottle of white wine to chill. That was for the white wine sangria. The sangria is homemade with a "special ingredient." Fresh cut fruit (apples, mangos, etc) were plentiful in each carafe we had. The beverage was the perfect ending to a somewhat stressful afternoon and the perfect beginning to a relaxed and beautiful evening. The tables are set with a bottle of salsa and the silverware is wrapped in traditional red/white or blue/white bandanas (which I could not stop smelling because I could smell the fabric softener!).
The Food:
We began with a few Empanadas ($5 each). I started with a Portobello Mushroom and Smoked Gouda Empanada and it basically melted in my mouth. Her Empanadas are not fried, rather they are baked. I had never had a baked one before and I will probably never have another fried one for as long as I live. Instead of tasting the fried dough, you actually tasted the inside-which is were it counts. The combination of the mushroom and gouda is brilliant. It had just the right amount of cheese. I mean, this ain't a Totino's pizza roll I am talking about-full of grease. In fact there was nothing greasy about it at all. I ended up ordering two more; another Mushroom and Gouda and one Chorizo and Manchego. I am not usually a fan of Chorizo but this one was tasty and not to greasy. I was tempted to try the Black Bean and Queso Blanco but didn’t want to fill up. Served on the table is a wonderful spicy salsa. It was tangy and quite spicy and went well with the Empanadas. After stuffing ourselves with Empanadas, and still enjoying our Sangria, we tried the fried plantain chips with three sauces: fresh guacamole, pico de gallo, and black bean molido. The guacamole and pico were fairly standard but the black beans were excellent. People either screw up black beans by adding too much spice or not enough. This was just right. The plantain chips were thinly sliced and not greasy.
Now it was dinner time.
I cannot believe I kept eating. I ordered the Costillas de Cerdo ($24). It was worth every penny. Pork ribs marinated 24+ hours and slowly braised in their own juices until they become lightly crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The meat literally fell off the bone. This was served with Spanish fried rice (which apparently looks just like white rice) and black beans in a clay pot. Perfect portions all around. Although I really could have done without the dollop of sour cream on the beans. Mrs. Hazard enjoyed the Pollo Machada ($16) which is shredded herbed chicken and seasonal vegetables marinated in spices and slowly simmered. It to was mighty tasty.
Service:
Our waitress seemed a bit off that evening and kind of slow and clueless. Mainly Ms. Fox was the one who took care of us. She even sat down and shared some wine! Then she brought more wine-it seemed someone couldn’t finish their sangria! We all sat there and talked and enjoyed ourselves. Then she insisted we have desert. So she ordered someone in the back to put an apple crisp in the oven. This was served with crème fraiche. So decadent and tasty it lasted all of about 2 minutes. The bill was paid we got up to leave and she came over to hug our necks. When visiting I recommend you bring an appetite! We left stuffed to the gills.
Bottom line:
I simply cannot wait to return.
Atmosphere: 5.0
Food: 5.0
Service: 4.0 (based on our waitress, not Ms. Fox)
Health Score: Who cares (the place was spotless)
A Casa Fox
173 Orchard Street
New York, NY 10002
212.253.1900
www.acasafox.com
.jpg)
Photo credits: Eric Hazard
