Friday, March 7, 2008

Forkboy on El Fenix...

UPDATED 9/18/2008

El Fenix has been a Dallas institution since 1918. Founded by Mike Martinez Sr., El Fenix is the oldest family-owned Mexican food restaurant in the country. The original location is on McKinney Av. just north of downtown near Victory Plaza. I am convinced that the same people have been working there since 1918. I have been going there since I was a child. I always got the soft cheese tacos. Corn tortillas covered in melted cheese with onions. I thought I was in heaven when that steaming plate was placed in front of me! Ahhh, such fond memories. The formula has not changed much at all. The chips are the same thin and crispy goodness and I am sure that I have consumed about a ton of their salsa. It is so comforting that with all the uncertainty in this world that I can walk into El Fenix and enjoy a meal that hasn’t changed in almost 100 years. Senor Martinez also started the Mexican food revolution when he decided to inject a hint of Texas into his soft cheese tacos by adding Texas chili and hence forth the cheese enchilada came to life. The enchiladas are served with rice and beans. I have never been a fan of Mexican rice as it tends to be too coarse and dry for my taste. I usually have a bite or two and that is it. The beans are good but not my favorite. I prefer my beans a little more blended and smooth. A black bean substitution would be nice.

The Food:
The tortilla soup is seriously the best! But what brings me back every week is the Wednesday special. Two cheese enchiladas, rice, and beans all for $4.99!!! Add a few margarita’s and some good friends and you have yourself a great night in store! The enchiladas are just basic corn tortillas with cheese and onions and covered in chili. Just good old-fashioned down home Mexican cooking. Healthy? Of course not. The food sitting on that plate is simply a lovely mirage for the pound of lard that awaits ingestion. I don’t care. It is good and everyone else thinks so as well. There are many other dishes on the menu that I could try but why would you? The special and the soup are the best ever!

The Atmosphere:
The establishment is old and there are pictures of dead relatives hanging all over the place. There are ancient newspaper clippings about El Fenix hanging around as well. There really isn’t that much to the place except it just feels kind of homey and relaxed. Everyone eats there from the poorest to the wealthiest of Dallasites.

The Service:
Many of the wait staff have been working there since the dawn of time. Prompt and friendly service is standard. On Wednesday the special is served just as soon as you order it. Nothing fancy at all.

Food: 1.0
Service: 4.5
Atmosphere: 3.5
Health Score: 97 (very good)

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